Talk to enough American retirees who have built happy lives in Spain, and a pattern starts to emerge. It is not that the ones who thrive are richer, or younger, or better at Spanish, or luckier in their choice of town. The thing they have in common is something they did before they ever committed …
There is a line in the Spanish calendar that most people moving to the country never notice until it has already cost them money. Spend more than 183 days in Spain during a single calendar year and you become a Spanish tax resident, and a Spanish tax resident owes Spanish tax on their worldwide income, …
Look up in any Spanish city and the whole street is doing its washing in public. Shirts and sheets, socks and underwear, hang from lines strung across balconies and between buildings, flapping over the traffic in full view of anyone who cares to look. Nobody cares to look. The laundry is simply there, the way …
For the price of a couple of coffees, a retiree in Spain can buy a small card that knocks up to forty percent off train fares across the entire country for a full year. It costs six euros, about six and a half dollars. It is available to anyone over sixty, whether they live in …
A family sits down at a restaurant in Seville, orders lunch, and asks for water. A waiter brings two large bottles of mineral water and, at the end of the meal, adds them to the bill: several euros for water that came out of a factory. The family pays without thinking, as tourists do across …
Picture a single American retiree who traded a mid-sized US city for the Spanish coast, and now rents a two-bedroom apartment in Alicante for six hundred and fifty euros a month, roughly seven hundred and ten dollars. Back home, that figure would not have covered a small one-bedroom, let alone left anything over. Here, it …
At two in the afternoon on a July day in Córdoba, the old city looks abandoned. The narrow lanes of the Judería are empty, shutters are pulled down over shop windows, and the only sound is a fountain somewhere behind a wall. The heat comes up off the stone paving in a way you can …
In the changing room of a gym in Munich, an American performs a small, familiar ballet. Towel clamped around the waist, he wrestles his underwear off underneath it, pivots to face his locker, and shimmies into fresh clothes without ever letting the towel drop, all while contriving never to be seen. Around him, the German …
A woman born in Spain today can expect to live to around 86 and a half. A woman born in the United States can expect to live to around 80. That gap, roughly six years, is one of the widest between two wealthy, developed nations, and it has held stubbornly for years. Researchers have spent …
A lot of Americans think retirement math is mostly about being “frugal in Europe.” They picture cheap menus, cheap wine, cheap rent, and a life where money stops being a problem. Then they land in Spain and discover the real story: Spain can absolutely be a great place to retire, but the budget is won …
At the end of almost every meal, I used to reach for something sweet and packaged. A couple of biscuits with my coffee, a square or four of chocolate, a little pot of some dessert I had bought precisely so it would be there. It was automatic, the full stop at the end of the …
On a July afternoon on a beach near Malaga, the sand is covered with people lying deliberately in the full midday sun, turning at intervals like something on a spit, chasing the deep brown tan that Spanish summer culture prizes. To an American dermatologist, the scene is close to a horror film: hundreds of people …